Hydroxyproline, collagen, skin firming and cellulite

• Hydroxyproline: the most important skin firming cream active, for both face and body - and an essential cellulite cream active

• Skin firming and cellulite creams with hydroxyproline peptide

• What about hydroxyproline serums for cellulite, anti-ageing and skin tightening?

• Not all hydroxyproline-containing creams are the same

• Hydroxyproline, centella asiatica, cocoa flavanols and chlorogenic acid

Hydroxyproline: the most important skin firming cream active, for both face and body - and an essential cellulite cream active

Collagen is a protein that contains high amounts of the aminoacids proline, glycine and hydroxyproline in its structure.

Hydroxyproline, specifically, is only found in collagen in the body - nowhere else - and it is THE most important aminoacid in the collagen protein.

Studies have shown that a hydroxyproline peptide stimulates collagen type I and III synthesis, as well as elastin synthesis. In addition it inhibits collagen breakdown.

Collagens type I and III are the ones that are primarily found in skin, ligaments and tendons (as opposed to collagen type II, which is found in cartilage).

Due to these qualities, bioavailable hydroxyproline peptide is one of the most important skincare actives today for skin firmness and skin elasticity, and consequently:

• face and body firming creams

• anti-ageing creams

• stretch mark creams

• post-liposuction aftercare creams

• cellulite creams

Skin firming and cellulite creams with hydroxyproline peptide

As part of an anti-cellulite formulation containing other similar actives (e.g. cocoa flavanols, centella asiatica / gotu kola, hyaluronic acid etc), hydroxyproline is an essential, all natural active ingredient in the fight against skin laxity, skin aging and cellulite.

A hydroxyproline peptide is much more stable and absorbable than the pure hydroxyproline aminoacid, and therefore it is a preferred form for use in skincare.

For maximum results, skin firming and cellulite creams should always be combined with exercise and healthy nutrition, rich in vegetables, herbs, spices, berry fruits and oily fish (or vegan equivalent) and adequate protein intake (something which unfortunately most women lack). A good collagen powder, rich in hydrolysed collagen type I & III, would also help, at a typical dose of 5-20g a day.

There is no point applying a cellulite cream in an effort to reduce cellulite if you develop new cellulite every day by eating unhealthily / not exercising.

And there is no point applying a skin firming cream if you do not give your body the protein it needs to build skin and muscle (both primarily made of protein) and all the other co-factors needed for collagen/elastin production (polyphenols, carotenoids and vitamins from herbs, veg, berry fruits, citrus fruits etc).

And always ensure you buy a cream containing a high concentration of hydroxyproline and other actives, and use it daily for 6-12 weeks at a time, not occasionally and not for just a few days.

What about hydroxyproline serums for cellulite, anti-ageing and skin tightening?

Shallow magazine/web articles like to push serums as being superior to creams. However, the fact of the matter is that serums are way too diluted and too little in quantity to have any effect on cellulite / body skin firmness.

High concentration and high quantity of product are equally necessary: you cannot possibly reduce cellulite or firm up body skin with 5-10 drops of some diluted watery serum.

Especially for body applications, you do need a lot of product. For example, we recommend the use of 10g of the Celluence® Body cream per day. In contrast, most serum bottles contain 15-30ml (= ~15-30g) and they suggest you apply just a few drops, i.e. less than 0.5g a day. That may be just about enough for the face (not even, really), but it is wholly inadequate for body use.

And no, serums do not get absorbed more than creams, they actually get absorbed less, simply because they are only water-soluble and cannot pass through the outer lipophilic layer of the skin. On the other hand, creams are amphiphilic, i.e. both fat- and water-soluble, and can go through both the outer lipophilic and inner hydrophilic skin layers.

Not all hydroxyproline-containing creams are created the same

Concentrated AND absorbable collagen peptide creams are very rare to find.

There are many diluted ones (some contain as little as 0.01% hydroxyproline) and quite a few more concentrated ones, which however, leave the skin greasy and do not absorb well.

And there are some rare products which contain 1% hydroxyproline. This means that the content of active molecules between hydroxyproline skincare products can vary as much as 100 times in the end-product.

Or to put it differently, you may need to apply a cream/gel/serum with a diluted collagen peptide extract 100 times just to get the benefit of applying a concentrated cream/gel/serum once. Simple maths.

So whether you buy a hydroxyproline cream for anti-aging, stretch marks, skin firming, cellulite reduction or post-liposuction aftercare, do your research first, as you would need 100x 0.01% creams to have the same effect as an 1% cream.

Hydroxyproline, centella asiatica, cocoa flavanols and chlorogenic acid

Hydroxyproline is well-known for its collagen (and elastin) synthesis stimulation. Cocoa flavanols are known for their elastin synthesis stimulation and also for protecting both collagen and elastin from damage.

On the other hand, centella asiatica is well researched for both its collagen synthesis stimulation and collagen remodelling action. While chlorogenic acid, from green coffee, is well researched for its anti-glycation action, which further protects collagen from damage.

All in all, it is a good idea to combine key active ingredients together for maximum efficacy, naturally.

However, very few cellulite creams combine those ingredients and even fewer in meaningful concentrations.

Again, do your research and look for high concentrations of multiple high-purity actives, to ensure you apply on your skin a worthwhile product.