Hyaluronic acid, anti-ageing and cellulite | Part II

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• Hyaluronic acid is everywhere these days, but how much do we know about it?

• The body’s prime hydrating molecule

• Where is hyaluronic acid found in the body?

• It’s all about the molecular weight

• Best hyaluronic acid molecular weight for skincare

• Penetration enhancer for other actives

• How does hyaluronic acid hydrate the skin?

• How much hyaluronic acid do we have in our bodies?

• Where can I find hyaluronic acid in foods?

• Is hyaluronic acid worth taking in supplement form?

• Hyaluronic acid and aging

• Hyaluronic acid and UV skin damage

• Hyaluronic acid is all about water

• It’s not about quantity, it’s about balance

• Hyaluronic acid in the body, water retention and cellulite on legs

• Hyaluronic acid for cellulite

• Cross-linked hyaluronic acid in filler injections and in serums and creams

• Polyphenols in diet help protect hyaluronic acid from degradation

• All hyaluronic acid these days is produced by bacterial fermentation - but it used to be sourced from animals

• Does hyaluronic acid cause weight gain?

• Should I apply hyaluronic acid on my legs?

• How does pure 100% hyaluronic acid look like? [Pics]

• Check our professional consultancy, for a masterclass in radiofrequency, ultrasound cavitation, cellulite and skin tightening

For more fascinating information on the "molecule of youth" check the first part of our detailed and extensive article.

Hyaluronic acid is everywhere these days, but how much do we know about it?

In the past 10-15 years hyaluronic acid (aka hyaluronan or hyaluronate) has become the most “famous” cosmetic active ingredient.

It is probably the most widely used anti-ageing molecule in beauty and cosmetics and is is now found in most facial skincare products - and of course injectables.

All new skincare products must have it and everyone claims to be using the best type of hyaluronic acid (HA) in their products.

On the other hand, most people know nothing about hyaluronic acid, other than that it is hydrating when applied on the skin or that it "fills up" their wrinkles when injected.

But what is hyaluronic acid, what does it do, how does it work and what is really the best type of hyaluronic acid?

I have been formulating hyaluronic acid skin products since 2003. Those days hardly anyone knew of hyaluronic acid and what it does for the skin. In fact I have seen HA starting to gain wider popularity only from 2010 onwards.

Here are 19 insights I have to offer into hyaluronic acid, the “wonder skin molecule”.

The body’s prime hydrating molecule

Hyaluronic acid (also known as hyaluronate or hyaluronan) is:

• the most important moisturising and lubricating molecule in the human body

• an essential component of skin, connective tissue and joints

• and an invaluable anti-ageing and skin/connective tissue repairing active ingredient

Due to its these properties it is ideal for use in hydrating, anti-ageing and wound healing creams, gels and serums

Where is hyaluronic acid found in the body?

In the body HA is mainly found in the eye, joints, skin and earlobes, among other organs and tissues.

It’s all about the molecular weight

Hyaluronic acid comes in various sizes (molecular weights) from 800 Dalton all the way to 20,000,000 Dalton.

The sizes above 1,000,000 Dalton form a film on the skin, while the smaller ones penetrate the deeper skin layers.

Best hyaluronic acid molecular weight for skincare

According to research and my experience as a formulator, the best low molecular weights (LMW), for both skin penetration and skin benefits, range from 50,000 Dalton to 800,000 Dalton.

Anything below 50,000 Dalton could potentially be pro-inflammatory, while anything above 800,000 Dalton simply sticks to the surface, causing tackiness.

Penetration enhancer for other actives

Low molecular weight hyaluronan is also a penetration enhancer for other active ingredients in body / face creams, so it is great for combining with other actives.

How does hyaluronic acid hydrate the skin?

Hyaluronic acid forms a three-dimensional network in water that acts like a sponge which literally traps water around and inside its folds, absorbing 1,000 times its weight in water.

How much hyaluronic acid do we have in our bodies?

An average 60 kg woman has about 13g of HA in her body, 4.3g of which is recycled every single day.

This means that all hyaluronic acid in our bodies is completely recycled and renewed every just 3 days.

Where can I find hyaluronic acid in foods?

A diet rich in vegetables (magnesium) and fruit (ascorbic acid) is said to help boost natural HA production.

Also some foods naturally contain HA or HA precursors. Examples of such foods rich in hyaluronic acid are bone broth, organ meats and joint cartilage.

Is hyaluronic acid worth taking in supplement form?

Hyaluronan can also be taken as a nutritional supplement, and it actually does reach skin and joints from the inside and does help with hydration/anti-ageing and with joint health, respectively.

This is similar to taking hydrolysed collagen supplements, which also help with skin hydration, firmness and overall anti-ageing, as well as tendon/ligament/joint health.

Hyaluronic acid and aging

From the age of 45 or so, levels of HA begin to decline significantly, with 50% less produced at age 60 and a whooping 75% less at age 70.

The effect of the decrease is looser, drier skin that does not heal well and that shows wrinkles more easily.

Hyaluronic acid and UV skin damage

UV radiation from the sun tends to diminish hyaluronic acid, leading to skin dryness and inflammation.

By ensuring the skin has plenty of HA in the summer, skin can stay hydrated and protected from sun damage.

Hyaluronic acid is all about water

Drinking loads of water can boost the other important molecule for hydration, the one without which hyaluronan is totally useless: water.

Ideally you should drink two litres of water a day.

So you can combine HA supplements and loads of water for improved skin hydration and anti-ageing.

For maximum results, you can additionally use a quality serum, gel or cream containing hyaluronic acid.

It’s not about quantity, it’s about balance

There is no reason to use hyaluronic acid serums and creams with anything more than 1% content of pure HA. More than that is excessive, counterproductive and unnecessary.

Anything between 0.1-1% is great, with 0.3-0.7% being ideal, depending on molecular weight.

Hyaluronic acid in the body, water retention and cellulite on legs

Accumulation of very high molecular weight hyaluronate (20,000,000 Dalton) occurs with inflammation and leads to oedema/water retention and fibrosis - not a good thing.

Severe cellulite on legs (and sometimes arms) features such extreme hyaluronan accumulation.

This does not mean that hyaluronic acid causes cellulite or water retention - quite the opposite.

It means that when skin is inflamed it accumulates vast amounts of a very unhealthy form of hyaluronic acid (20MDa) which is not found anywhere else in the body or in any beauty product. And that leads to severe water retention and cellulite.

Hyaluronic acid for cellulite

And since we are talking about hyaluronic acid and cellulite, let’s make it clear that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can indirectly help a little bit with cellulite reduction, but it is not a primary active ingredient, either in creams or in supplements.

Don’t get me wrong, for general anti-ageing, skincare and joint care hyaluronic acid is great, it just did not show to help with cellulite reduction and there is no biochemical mechanism via which this can happen.

This is in contract to actives such as forskolin, caffeine and centella asiatica triterpenes, which are both proven to reduce cellulite via clear biochemical pathways.

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid in filler injections and in serums and creams

Filler injections use artificial "cross-linked" hyaluronic acid.

However, cross-linked hyaluronic acid is also found in some HA serums and creams for application onto the skin.

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid is much more hydrating than the natural, "linear" version. However, when applied onto the skin it typically does not get absorbed, due to its structure and stays on top of the skin.

And when it does, it stays on the epidermis. It does not penetrate deep into the skin as low molecular weight HA does.

So all benefits of cross linked hyaluronic acid are only epidermal / superficial.

Polyphenols in diet help protect hyaluronic acid from degradation

Polyphenols in fruits and vegetables (what people call "antioxidants") can help protect HA from breakdown by inhibiting hyaluronidase, the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid.

Yet another reason to eat healthily.

All hyaluronic acid these days is produced by bacterial fermentation - but it used to be sourced from animals

A couple of decades ago hyaluronic acid in cosmetics used to come from pigs’ ears or cocks’ combs (there is plenty on our earlobes too).

These days all hyaluronic acid is made via bacterial fermentation - so no animal products in your HA serum anymore.

Does hyaluronic acid cause weight gain?

Absolutely not. You cannot get fat or gain weight with hyaluronic acid.

There are NO calories in hyaluronic acid and it does NOT stimulate fat accumulation either.

Should I apply hyaluronic acid on my legs?

A hyaluronic acid gel or cream of 50,000-800,000 Dalton molecular weight will offer valuable hydration to the skin of your legs, thereby helping prevent skin ageing.

Furthermore, such a HA can also contribute to skin firming.

How does pure 100% hyaluronic acid look like? [Pics]

Ever wondered how your hyaluronic acid serum looks like before it becomes a serum with the addition of water and preservatives?

Well, here are two pictures of pure, 100% hyaluronic acid (cosmetics usually contain anything between 0.01%-5%).

These different types of HA don't look much different but they are very different:

• The first one is Extremely Low Molecular Weight, 6,000 Dalton. It penetrates more, but hydrates less. Only for specific, technical uses.

• The second one is High Molecular Weight, 2,000,000 Dalton. It doesn't penetrate much, but hydrates a lot more. Only for superficial use, in small amounts.

The optimum is somewhere in the middle, 50,000-800,000 Dalton, where there is a balance between penetration, hydration and overall anti-ageing activity.

Check our professional consultancy, for a masterclass in radiofrequency, ultrasound cavitation, cellulite and skin tightening

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